A Miami Memoir: Attitude embraces joy and identity in the Magic City
In this travel diary, Attitude’s Ashley Davey documents his first ever visit to the US – a four-day trip to Miami filled with curiosity, nerves and ultimately, joy
By Ashley Davey
Just between us gurls, this was my first time in the US, and I didn’t know what to expect. With anti-LGBTQ+ rhetoric on the rise across parts of the country, I had real concerns about how welcome I’d feel.
Miami, though, had other plans. What unfolded was a four-day adventure that challenged my assumptions and offered up moments of joy, connection and queer celebration in ways I hadn’t anticipated, culminating in a visit to the stunning Miami Beach Pride.
Here’s what happened…
Day 1: Hyatt check-in and Bakalò
After a quick check-in at Hyatt Centric Brickell Miami, my trip begins with dinner at Bakalò, a charming Mediterranean restaurant nestled in Miami Beach. The restaurant is warm and inviting, with lighting and décor that very much transport me straight to the coastal towns of Greece. As I devour mouthfuls of the varying hot and cold meze, one could be mistaken for believing they are in Mykonos – where the owner originates from. It’s no surprise that Bakalò attracts A-Listers like Sofía Vergara and Calvin Klein, and it’s a fabulous introduction to the diverse culture and cuisine Miami has to offer.
Day 2: Nature’s embrace and culinary delights
After a much-needed sleep at the hotel, and an ice coffee from Hyatt’s Caña Restaurant to kickstart my day, we venture to EcoAdventures for a kayaking tour. We paddle through the serene waters of Biscayne National Park marvelling at the lush mangroves and seagrass meadows. The tour guides are essential to offering insights on the local ecosystem and pointing out the local wildlife – I truly believe I could be the next David Attenborough after this activity (just putting it out there).
After paddling up an appetite – excuse the awful pun – we head to Jaffa Miami for lunch. This Israeli-inspired eatery offers a vibrant menu that indulges the taste buds. I must say the freshly baked pita is dipped into everything and the spices add a delightful twist to my British palate. A personal highlight is the De-constructed Baba-Gaush, a grilled Eggplant dish that I am determined to find in London!
With an frozen lemonade in hand, we head off to our next challenge – Treetop Trekking Miami, South Florida’s first and only aerial zipline adventure park. Navigating through the four obstacle courses offers various degrees of difficulty but the payoff is some amazing aerial views and some exhilarating ziplines amidst the treetops. Although, fair warning, don’t be too alarmed if you come across a few lizards en route. If you’re a newcomer to the Tarzan lifestyle like me, don’t fear – the staff do a thorough orientation on how to unleash your true potential.
Day 3: A celebration of identity and art
The day begins with a visit to the Museum of Ice Cream, a whimsical wonderland that delights both my inner child and my sometimes-troublesome love for ice cream. Now, when I say Museum of Ice Cream, think more Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory than your traditional museum. From the pool filled with hundreds and thousands, to the conveyor belts providing ice cream at the touch of a button, the entire exhibit is a completely sensory delight. The museum’s playful atmosphere offers some incredible photo backdrops and some truly exciting activities to get stuck into.
Once I indulge myself through the ice cream offerings, we attend the famed drag brunch at R House in Wynwood which I can wholeheartedly say does not disappoint. As my first introduction to stateside drag performances, I couldn’t have asked for a better experience to pop my cherry.
The performances are stunning, kickstarted by an electric performance by Athena Dion The Queen followed by Juicy Love Dion, who have me losing dollar bills faster than my nan at a slot machine.
The brunch menu, curated by executive chef/owner Rocco Carulli, is equally impressive, featuring Latin-inspired dishes that visitors and locals alike crave.
R House has previously found itself as the target of the State of Florida’s crusade against drag and their spaces. Yet, not only do Chef Rocco Carulli and his husband Owen Bale fight back, they also win. With their strong track record of championing equality and the couple’s consistency in supporting LGBTQ+ causes, the couple embodies resilience and pride.
Considering the growing anti-LGBTQ+ sentiment emanating from the White House, especially towards the trans and non-binary members of our community, there is an understandable hesitation amongst LGBTQ+ travellers when choosing to visit the US right now.
History has shown that when political forces attack our community, we close ranks and find freedom and expression and most importantly safety in our spaces, and I couldn’t recommend R House enough as one of the top spots to visit if you find yourself in the Magic City. It also felt fitting to ask Owen Bale: What does LGBTQ+ tourism mean to R House?
“Support from LGBTQ+ tourists is the heartbeat of R House,” he tells me. “Every time someone chooses to spend their time with us, especially visitors who travel from all over the world, it’s a reminder that safe, joyful spaces are so important to our community and matter now more than ever in a political climate that sometimes feels heavy.”
After some exquisite drag performances, we move on to explore the LGBTQ+ exhibition at the Pérez Art Museum. The tour highlights some pieces that tell stories of love, struggle, triumph, resonating with our own experiences. It’s heartening to see such representation in a major art institution, echoing Miami’s commitment to inclusivity and diversity which prevails throughout my trip.
Day 4: Exploring sensuality and expression
On our final day, we visit the Museum of Sex – and it is not what I am expecting. This museum offers both education and provocative content via a space dedicated to exploring human sexuality through art and interactive exhibits. One room’s décor is reminiscent of a grand casino, filled with various sex-themed interactive games and (most randomly) a RuPaul fortune teller automated machine which I’m happy to say, reads me to filth by saying my love life is non-existent and essentially ‘good god girl get a grip’. It’s a lovely conclusion to my Miami adventure.
Reflections: Miami’s embrace
The overarching message from my trip to Miami is its constant vibrant energy and its determination to embrace its diverse heritage. From culinary delights infused with Cuban and international flavours to celebrated LGBTQ+ identities and their inclusive spaces, the city offers me every opportunity to feel seen, valued and completely free to be myself. In a time when acceptance can feel uncertain, the Magic City is an outpost of hope and joy, and a reminder of how important LGBTQ+ travel is to support our global community and embrace our beautiful individual identities.