Why London’s fashion crowd is obsessed with Wagyu Yakiniku Ushio
From perfectly marbled cuts to smoky grills and a distinctly fashionable crowd, we see if it lives up to the hype
The cliché that fashion people don’t eat has gone on long enough. These days, editors, stylists and designers debate the merits of a perfectly cooked piece of beef just as passionately as they discuss a new-season collection. And in Fitzrovia, the latest destination for that particular breed of fashion person is Wagyu Yakiniku USHIO.
Originally from Fukuoka, Japan, Ushio has brought its wagyu-focused omakase to Charlotte Street, swapping the usual sushi-counter experience for something considerably meatier. The London outpost focuses on Japanese Akami Wagyu, with chefs preparing and grilling each cut in front of you.
There’s something wonderfully ritualistic about the whole thing. Seated around the counter, dinner becomes less about ordering and more about watching. The chef slices and seasons each cut before placing it on the grill and serving it one at a time. The omakase takes you on a tour of the cow, from tongue and rump through to sirloin and more delicately marbled cuts.
Beef, unsurprisingly, reigns supreme. The star attraction is the wagyu: beautifully marbled, deeply savoury and cooked simply enough to let the quality of the meat do the talking. There’s no need for elaborate sauces or distractions. A little salt, tare and the heat of the grill are more than enough.
“My highest priority is bringing out the very best qualities of Wagyu itself” – Yuto Nagata, head chef
“My highest priority is bringing out the very best qualities of Wagyu itself,” explains head chef Yuto Nagata. “I believe my role is to understand the condition of each cut and prepare it in the best possible way – from sourcing and storage to cutting and seasoning ̶ so that every part of the animal is presented at its absolute best.”
And then there’s the sake. Ushio’s drinks list offers a strong selection of Japanese sake alongside wine and shochu, making it an easy place to linger long after the last piece of beef has disappeared. Made even better by fact it’s opener later than its neighbours
Perhaps that’s the real appeal. Ushio feels polished without being stuffy, intimate without feeling overly serious. It’s the kind of place where a fashion editor can arrive straight from a show, order another glass of sake and spend two hours discussing clothes while someone expertly grills Wagyu inches away.
Discover Wagyu Yakiniku Ushio at 12 Charlotte Street, London, W1T 2LU, UK.