Milan Fashion Week round-up
It was a pretty low key affair at Versace, compared with chaps and helmets from last year. It was, as Donatella said pre-show ‘Versace stripped’ and all about ‘ the silouette and cut.’ The boys walked down with some longer length cable knitwear and fur trim everywhere. Following suit with Moschino, there were plenty of thermals on show, mixed with fur hoods in a palette of chocolate cream with minimal flesh on show.
Prada continued it’s exploration of gender (once again showing the Autumn winter menswear with the pre-fall womens) The neutral colour palette of the season continued with black nylon adding a slither of shimmer to the proceedings. With a parade of boys (not men) walking down the runway intensified the dichotomy of the women’s power in their collection- roll reversals ahoy.
Speaking of shiny collections drained of colour, Calvin Klein Collection continued their strong run of seasons with their grey out collection. The neutral was made sure never to slip into the dull, with a great use of tonal greys with outerwearhelped out by some leopard print (in the subtle kind) on both the tailoring and the outerwear. These were mixed with cropped shiny shearling jackets, and their now, almost trademark loose irridesent wider leg trousers. Military touches of caps, sinched in high waists and utility pockets were balanced out with flowing capes and high shine.
Jil Sander kept it seventies with super high roll necks and long spy coats and leather gloves and tinted glasses. Trousers with billowing fabric, and high belted waists and a palette of colour pops with neutrals gave the the collection clear
Dolce & Gabbana kept it all in the family, mirroring their campaigns with multiple models. The family tableau was projected onto the clothes, with family portraits spanning through Renaissance paintings-to old black and white weathered pictures-to the modern day photograph family. Embroidery family crests and crowns with lashings of extravagant gold donned the clothes, making it as regal as we expect from the brand. This is one opulent family tree. The models too spanned through the generations with regards to age, and also their attire, with silky loungewear and smoking jackets, and embroidered tailoring down to patched on blouson jackets, sweatpants and ripped jeans. Every man in the family is to be kitted out in Dolce.
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Dsquared2 brought the bit of flesh we were missing form Milan (good old DSquared2.) There was plenty of fur and trimmings to the collection. Leather trousers with studding galore. Fringing, studs, fur trims, anything you could think of that you know and love from the Canadian twins over the past 20 years. The bells and whistles were supplemented with utility. There were puffa gilets, fur gilets, leather gilets, well worn in and work splashed denim with some neon bright pinks bringing up the rear of the collection (along with Mary J Blige, who closed the show.)
Moncler Gamme Bleu strode out with their signature palette of greys, white, navy and red. The collection was a gorgeous display of prints, ranging from racing checks, polarised stripes and clashing prints on garments. With nods to the jockey with riding boots and trousers and plenty of diamond print, the collection was as bold as ever. The industrial was addressed with work goggles and skullcaps on the models, who marched down four at a time in similar silouhettes, less of an army and more of a workforce for fashion. The boys were carrying, then wearing reversible puffer jackets, handy for that quick change. There is always a lot going on with Thom Browne, but it was definitely in a good way. He managed to marry in the sportier utility with accessories such as bow ties and goggles and a plethora of prints. It worked, simple as.
Diesel Black Gold paraded the collegiate- gone bad, with patchworks and ripped denim all over. Sleek and sporty outwear in greys, black and midnight blues layered over ivy league looks, with puffer detailing. A smattering of zips, studs and rips keeping true to the brand’s DNA, with shots of dark red on the denim.
With the sooner than anticipated departure of Frida Giannini from Gucci, the collection had a complete brand overhaul (right down to models being dropped, right before the show) With a much more romantic collection presented- blurring gender boundaries with bow neck ties, ruffles and berets, silk paisley scarves- the androgyny was definitely present- no more so than a sheer rose print top that showed of the decolletage. It was a Parisian in Milan….speaking of France, it’s on to Paris!
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