Bob Mackie leaves behind a fashion legacy as unforgettable as the stars he dressed
The designer behind some of pop culture’s most unforgettable looks, Mackie’s influence stretched from Cher and Tina Turner to a new generation of stars
Bob Mackie, the legendary fashion and costume designer behind some of pop culture’s most unforgettable looks, has died aged 87. Mackie’s official Instagram account announced his death. His representatives have not yet disclosed the cause of death.
Across a career spanning more than six decades, Mackie became synonymous with showstopping costumes and the art of dressing a performer. The V&A celebrated his enduring influence in 2023 with its DIVA exhibition in London, which featured several of his most iconic designs for stars including Cher and Tina Turner.
Sketch of Flame dress for Tina Turner by Bob Mackie, 1977 (© Original artwork by Costume and Fashion Designer, Bob Mackie)
Of course, Mackie was synonymous with Cher. Their decades-long creative partnership produced some of the singer’s most memorable looks, from the dramatic feathered headdress she wore at the 58th Academy Awards in 1986 to the equally provocative, Erté-inspired ensemble she donned when accepting her Best Actress award in 1988 for Moonstruck.
Throughout the disco era of the 1970s and into the 1980s, Mackie’s glittering designs were worn by stars including Tina Turner and Diana Ross. But his influence didn’t end there. In recent years, his work has enjoyed a resurgence among a new generation of pop stars, proving that his appetite for glamour and spectacle remains as relevant as ever.
When Miley Cyrus performed her Grammy-winning hit Flowers at the 2024 Grammy Awards, she opted for a vintage Mackie design from his 2002 To Broadway with Love collection. Elsewhere, stars including Sabrina Carpenter and Ariana Grande have delved into the designer’s archives, embracing his timeless showgirl aesthetic for a new generation.
Mackie’s early career
His early work included an assistantship with celebrated Hollywood costume designer Jean Louis, where, aged just 23, he sketched the design for the now-iconic sheer, crystal-covered gown Marilyn Monroe wore to sing “Happy Birthday, Mr President” to John F. Kennedy in 1962.
The dress became one of the most recognisable garments in fashion history, selling for a record $4.8 million at Julien’s Auctions in 2016 before Ripley’s Believe It or Not! acquired it. Six decades after Monroe wore it, Kim Kardashian donned the original dress at the 2022 Met Gala, a decision Mackie famously called “a big mistake”.
Mackie won nine Emmy Awards and a Tony, while his career helped redefine the relationship between fashion and performance. He leaves behind a legacy that was anything but subtle. And thank God for that.