Maximilian Raynor kicked off London Fashion Week with birthday cake and chaos
With his Spring/Summer 2026 collection the emerging queer designer is keeping London Fashion Week's punk roots alive.
Maximilian Raynor’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection proves that storytelling is fast becoming his signature.
His latest twisted tale, dubbed I’ll Cry If I Want To, was a nostalgic fever dream of childhood memory and punk irreverence – a nod to London fashion’s punk roots.
Lesley Gore’s wistful vocals on It’s My Party soundtracked a story of a Midlands boy who dreams of a retro birthday party. Family members transformed into eccentric Dickensians in knotted pyjamas and a collision of mismatched prints. Flappers met mid-century housewives in a mishmash of styling only possible by riffling through Nan’s attic.
The menswear was skintight this season. A wardrobe discovered rather than sought out, with shirts and knits too snug. A subversive wink at tradition and a bold reassertion of male sensuality on the runway.
This pointed sex appeal concluded with Raynor’s latest take on a Red Coat, transforming the uniform into provocation. Crimson mesh with net fringe that fluttered as the models walked. A daring cut-out exposed the entire sweep of the back, turning what was once a symbol of discipline into a garment of invitation.
It’s an approach that feels intimately familiar for those yearning for the chaos that once defined London fashion. Among the attendees were today’s queer club kids led by OG party girl Princess Julia. In a week dominated by polished branding and influencers, his show felt refreshingly less sterile.
Maximilian Raynor’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection is reminder of why the city matters. His collections do not merely offer product but stories, tension and atmosphere. A call back to experimentation at a time when commerciality dominates.