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Escape to Cyprus

Whether it’s parties or peaceful seclusion you’re after, Cyprus, with its glorious beaches, mountain villages, varied nightlife and near-guaranteed sunshine, is a desirable destination all year round

By Cliff Joannou

Cliff of Ayia Napa and writer Cliff with two of his friends in the sea
Ayia Napa and writer Cliff (bottom left) with his friends (Images: Pexels by Natalia Szabo and Cliff Joannou)

With a history stretching back to the beginning of civilisation, Cyprus is the golden gateway between Europe and the Middle East and is celebrated as the birthplace of Aphrodite. The goddess of love, lust, beauty, pleasure and passion is enshrined in mythology as having had tumultuous affairs with gods and mortals alike, sparked the Trojan War, and inspired The Ode to Aphrodite, a poem by Greek poet and lesbian icon Sappho. 

It’s easy to understand why Cyprus became historically synonymous with such divine idolatry — the island is bathed in up to 340 days of sunshine a year, while the calm waters of the surrounding Mediterranean Sea are often placid and serene. Although the island offers something for everyone, the area around bustling Ayia Napa is a popular base for its accessibility to a variety of outstanding beaches and restaurants, and its proximity to Larnaca airport. 

Areial shot of Ayia Napa's coast line
Ayia Napa (Image: Pexels by Johanna Lowen)

What to do

The eastern coast around Ayia Napa offers a wide range of beaches, each with a distinct character. To the north, Paralimni and Protaras are dotted with coves that deliver very different beach experiences, from lively stretches to quieter, more secluded bays where you can be entirely alone.

Fig Tree Bay is the most famous of the Protaras beaches, known for its crystal-clear water, though it fills quickly and rewards early arrival. Public beaches are government-owned, and with deckchairs and umbrellas priced modestly, there’s more room in the budget for long lunches and seaside cocktails nearby.

A sign for Fig Tree Bay with the beach beyond
Fig Tree Bay (Image: Cliff Joannou)

For something calmer, Ammos Kambouri Beach, on the south-eastern coast, offers a more intimate setting, with cabanas, loungers and a small snack truck serving drinks throughout the day.

Those seeking a more elevated beach experience will find private beach clubs scattered along the coast, offering sunbeds, relaxed dining and well-priced menus compared to other Mediterranean hotspots. Isola Beach Bar on Nissi Beach pairs a laid-back atmosphere with generous food offerings, while Riva Beachouse, west towards the new marina, delivers sunset views and a strong restaurant menu — the octopus carpaccio and beef tataki are thoroughly recommended.

Aprodite's Rock in the sea
Aprodite’s Rock (Image: Pexels by Harwood)

Further afield, a day trip to the Blue Lagoon, in the Akamas National Forest Park on the western tip of the island, rewards those willing to travel. The road trip itself takes in Limassol, swings past Paphos and through the island’s western hills, with opportunities to stop at Petra tou Romiou, also known as Aphrodite’s Rock. Once you arrive at the fishing village of Latchi, private or group boat trips lead to an afternoon of swimming and snorkelling in sapphire-blue coves, with refreshments included on board.

After a day at sea, consider a stop at Viklari restaurant on Avakas Gorge Road, where simple, generous food is paired with far-reaching views across the western Mediterranean.

View from a boat trip from Latchi
View from a boat trip from Latchi (Image: Cliff Joannou)

Where to eat

In Ayia Napa, the Glasshouse Lounge Restaurant sits on the top floor of the Adams Beach Hotel on Nissi Avenue, and the view across the bay is gorgeous as the sun dips below the horizon. The fish is of the finest quality and the servings are generous, while quirky cocktails make for a premium experience — even if the service is comically reminiscent of Fawlty Towers.

Traditional taverna food is essential in Cyprus. Located in an outer suburb of Larnaca, To Kazani (No5, Aradippou 7104) is worth the journey for generous meze and exceptional value (reservation recommended as it gets busy). In Sotira, a 15-minute drive from central Ayia Napa, Mousikos Restaurant delivers abundant dishes and a buzzing, characteristically Cypriot atmosphere, where you can drink and dine sumptuously for barely €25 a head. 

A hearty meal from Kazani restaurant
A hearty meal from Kazani restaurant (Image: Cliff Joannou)

And you must not miss out on sampling the famous Cypriot beer, Keo. It’s crisp sunlight blended and bottled into a refreshingly chilled beverage. Also, believe us when we say you will never have better-tasting chips than those made from Cyprus potatoes…

Nights out

Cyprus has made steady progress on LGBTQ+ rights in recent decades, with same-sex relationships decriminalised in 1998, civil unions legal since 2015 and so-called “conversion therapy” banned in 2023. While the island does not have defined gay districts, most major towns are home to at least one LGBTQ+-friendly bar.

In Larnaca, Lube Bar offers a dancier atmosphere and regularly hosts boat parties during the warmer months. Diamonds Showbar in Protaras is known for its drag performances, drawing crowds from across the eastern coast, while Different Bar in Paphos attracts a pop-leaning crowd and a mix of locals and visitors. Evenings tend to be informal, with nightlife spread across towns rather than concentrated in one area.

Events

Cyprus hosts a varied calendar of cultural events throughout the year. Cyprus Pride takes place in late May or early June in the capital, Nicosia, and is organised by Accept — LGBTI Cyprus. Pride is positioned primarily as a protest focused on visibility, equality and resistance to erasure, while still embracing celebration. The day centres on a public march followed by music, speeches and social gatherings, with bars and venues in central Nicosia hosting related events.

Insider tip

An overnight stay in Troodos will reveal the breathtaking beauty of the evergreen mountains, dotted with quaint villages such as Omodos – a must-see. If you’re a lover of fresh fish, head to Zygi, a small village on the south coast where the best catch of the day can be found.

The forested hills of Troodos
Troodos (Image: Pexels by Giannos Georgiou)

When to go

Temperatures hover around the mid-20s from late May and rise to the high 30s in August, before settling back down to the mid-20s until November. By far the best time to visit Cyprus is outside of the hectic school holiday season. Hiring a car is essential to make the most of the island, with rates extremely reasonable all year round.

Getting there

Attitude flew with British Airways from London Gatwick to Larnaca. Flights operate to Larnaca and Paphos year-round. Book the best prices at ba.com/Gatwick.