Game of Thrones, gay nights and the glory of Dubrovnik: Attitude takes a trip to Croatia

I’m looking out across the view of the old town from the sea-facing balcony of our room at the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, and I suddenly realise I’ve missed the memo on one vital fact. “Is this King’s Landing?” I ask my partner as I then spot the 16th century Fort Lovrijenac directly ahead of us, which looks suspiciously like the Red Keep from Game of Thrones.

Dubrovnik is indeed where key scenes of the hit series were shot, forever putting the city on the pop culture map when filming moved there in 2012. Me? I came here to explore the historical city that is proudly one of the oldest republics in the world. As a latecomer to Game of Thrones mania (I binged the entire series just ahead of the final season out of FOMO), this latest revelation has given me a pleasant surprise.

We’re here in October 2024 to avoid the peak summer crowds that flock to the tiny city streets, so the sunshine and 23 degree heat are most welcome. The commanding sloping stone walls of the old town are a sight to behold, and in its early centuries must have evoked an imposing sense of fortitude and resilience to outsiders that could prove a threat. Set against the red bricks of the city rooftops, the glistening blue Adriatic Sea and rolling green hills to the right, it’s a truly splendid scene.

Checking in at Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik

The Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik is well placed for a long weekend visit. It is grand and graceful, bright and airy, and was recently refurbished to a high standard. Its location is perfect, being at the foot of the hill just 200 metres from Pile Gate – the entrance to the magnificent, UNESCO (The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation) protected old city that is also referred to as ‘the Pearl of the Adriatic’.

We order a margarita and enjoy an hour watching the sunset from our balcony before heading out for dinner at divine Lucin Kantun, an intimate restaurant in a narrow street in the heart of the old town. We dine on tantalising tapas — tuna tartare, octopus salad and beefsteak tagliata – complemented by a regional red.

Island hopping the Elafiti

The next morning, our transfer takes us to the harbour for a private boat tour by Dubrovnik Boats to the Elafiti Islands, eight picturesque islands and five isles north of the city – an excursion here is an absolute must. Only three of the Elafiti islands are inhabited, and even then the population of the largest is less than 300. From the sea, we admire the houses built into the green hills. Chic boutique hotels are available for those looking to stay overnight, but be sure to book ahead.

We circle the smaller uninhabited isles, stopping by the coves to dive into the translucent water for a snorkel into the caves. We end the day at Lopud island with a sensational seafood platter at Dubrovnik Restaurant, located on the seafront by the jetty, sipping champagne as the water splashes below our feet.

Fine dining in the Old Town

That evening, we have a reservation to enjoy the fine dining at Restaurant Dubrovnik located on a terrace in the middle of the old town. Flanked by the old stone houses, it’s the definition of ambience. We look around and spot the decorative carvings on the buildings towering around us: gargoyles, flowers and peculiar faces adorn them. It’s a reminder of how important it is to always take time to look up whenever you visit an old city to admire the humour, history and whimsy you might otherwise miss.

Tonight, we’re treated to an outstanding dinner by chef Igor Jagodic, whose restaurant back in Slovenia has a Michelin star. He is the guest chef setting up a kitchen here during the annual Good Food Festival, when many of the city’s restaurants offer well priced taster menus. The festival ends with a huge feast in the old town’s main street.

Queer nights in Dubrovnik

After dinner, we head around the corner to the city’s recently opened permanent LGBTQ+ cocktail bar and club, Milk Bar. Named in honour of Harvey Milk, it’s the only ‘official’ queer club in Croatia, and I can confirm that it’s a buzzing spot that on this evening has pulled in a crowd of welcoming locals and tourists alike. The décor is thoroughly edgy and modern, the music spot on with its mix of dance and pop remixes, and the cocktail servings generous. We enjoy ourselves here till late before taking the short walk back to the hotel.

The next morning, we walk through the old town to the harbour on the opposite side and take the boat across to Lokrum island, located just 600 metres to the south. As we disembark, we wander through lush woodland, passing peacocks that meander across the walkways and tiny rabbits darting through the bushes. The island is uninhabited, and the boats only operate during the day, so make sure you catch the last return ferry, usually around 5pm – but do check the schedule!

The island escape has a calm charm to it and is most definitely worth a visit, with most people making the journey to explore its nature trails, botanic gardens, beaches and (more recently) the old Benedictine monastery that was also the location for the King’s Landing garden scenes in Game of Thrones. The museum on the island even has a replica iron throne that’s perfect for a selfie.

Lokrum Island’s hidden nude beach

This is not in most guidebooks, but keep following the path to the left when you disembark the boat, and you’ll eventually come to some grey rocks with signs that indicate nude sunbathing. And as any seasoned queer traveller knows, a nudist beach is a de facto gay one.

That night, we dine at bustling Kopun restaurant and enjoy a fantastic calamari main with more exquisite local wine. The largely open-air restaurant is located in a peaceful spot past Boškovićeva Poljana (Bošković Square) and beyond the instantly recognisable Jesuit Steps that lead to the church of St. Ignatius – known to Game of Thrones fans for the infamous scene in which Cersei Lannister is walked naked through the streets. (Fortunately, or surprisingly, my visit doesn’t set off the shame bell.)

We meet our tour guide Ivona Covic in the old town the next morning and crisscross the winding narrow walkways. The walled city is divided by a central main road with streets branching off it that gradually make their way upwards. After an earthquake estimated to be magnitude 7 devastated the city on 6 April 1667, the city was rebuilt in the baroque style.

This is an excerpt from a feature appearing in Attitude’s July/August 2024 issue.