Haider Ackermann harnesses after-hours glamour with his latest for Tom Ford
Leather tailoring and harness-strapped sandals reinforce the creative director’s authority as a master of seduction.
Is there a man more worthy of carrying on Tom Ford’s legacy as a paragon of provocation than Haider Ackermann? The creative director reaffirmed his status as a master of seduction with his Spring/Summer 2026 show at Paris Fashion Week.
Drawing from Ford’s notoriously seductive persona, the collection navigated the world of nightlife and the morning after. Sensuality met androgyny in fluid lines and layered silhouettes, while unexpected pops of colour punctuated the restrained elegance.
Precision and provocation came to a head in the house’s sharp tailoring, rendered in sumptuous silk and supple leather. Ackermann’s eye for texture and colour elevated each look. The louche emerald suede bomber jacket evoked the sultry pulse of nightlife, while a shimmering cobalt-blue suit worn by the brand’s longtime muse Scott Barnhill, was equally drenched in seductive glamour.
The devil lay in the details: harness-strapped sandals and G-strings peeking from beneath translucent shorts, hint at audacious intimacy with a wink of kink. An ample nod to both Ackermann and Ford’s furiously cultivated understanding of desire and identity. Visions shaped by a lifetime of navigating the world as queer men, infusing the collection with both bravado and intimacy.
The spectacle extended beyond the runway, too. Sex symbols came out in droves, with the front row populated by icons like Janet Jackson, Kate Moss, and Pamela Anderson, underscoring the show’s potent allure.
In Ackermann’s hands, the Tom Ford brand is no longer just a symbol of sexual confidence. As creative director he’s injected an enigmatic charisma. A careful balance of mystery, elegance, and daring that honours the brand’s provocative heritage while pushing it into contemporary terrain.