How vintage gay porn shaped the new Acne Studios collection 

While technically a womenswear collection, Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2026 might just be some of the best menswear of the season. 

Creative director Jonny Johansson blurred the lines between masculine and feminine, transforming rugged, hyper-masculine staples with androgynous posturing. The result? A collection both subversive and effortlessly wearable.

The collection drew heavily from the work of queer artist Pacifico Silano, whose imagery adorned the show space. His collages of 20th-century gay erotica, spliced from Honcho and Drummer, explore desire and melancholy. Offering glimpses into queer culture while leaving much to the viewer’s imagination, they inspired garments that evoke seduction and tension.

Siliano’s influence was evident throughout, with transparent, rubberised, and latex fabrics serving as a nod to the homoerotic. The looks riffed on the hyper-masculine archetypes that filled the pages of gay erotica from the 1970s and 1980s. Rugged suede cowboys and aviator-clad patrolmen were recast through a contemporary queer lens.

Robyn further enlivened the runway with an exclusive soundtrack. “There was an unexpected dialogue between the music and the clothes that I didn’t see coming. We had no prior knowledge of one another’s latest work. Yet both question and celebrate the typical idea of female identity. It’s been fun and interesting to hear my lyrics in this context,” she says.

The show was a testament to the intersection of queer artistry and fashion. Where eroticism and masculine iconography converge to create a collection both provocative and poignant. Evidently, queer desire is in for spring.