Why Bari is the perfect base for exploring Puglia’s magic
From evening strolls along the Lungomare to sipping on a spritzer in a tucked-away piazza, there’s plenty for the queer traveller to enjoy here
Puglia, which lies within Italy’s heel, is full of delights, and Bari, its capital, is an ideal base for discovering it. The city has an old town with charming streets and alleyways to explore, as well as cultural highlights and a flourishing food scene to sink your teeth into.
Bari may not shout as loudly as its Riviera cousins, but that’s part of its charm. This Adriatic beauty at the upper end of Italy’s heel is a mix of ancient stone streets and culinary delights. From evening strolls along the Lungomare to sipping on a spritzer in a tucked-away piazza, there’s plenty for the queer traveller to enjoy here. Bari is the perfect spot for a relaxed weekend getaway or as a jumping-off point for exploring the rest of the Puglia region.
WHAT TO DO
Begin in Bari Vecchia, the old town, where sun-washed houses in shades of citrus line cobbled alleys, and grandmothers sit at their doorsteps rolling orecchiette by hand as they’ve done for generations. One of this area’s highlights is the Basilica of Saint Nicolas. Built in honour of Saint Nicholas (yes, the original Santa Claus), it has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. Next, climb the old seafront walls for a sunset panorama of the Adriatic, while the city radiates a golden glow behind you.
Art lovers should head to the Pinacoteca Provinciale Museum for works ranging from Renaissance masters to contemporary gems, while at the sea-straddling Teatro Margherita exhibitions are held on rotation. For pure drama, there’s the Teatro Petruzzelli. After a devastating fire in 1991, Italy’s fourth-largest opera house was painstakingly rebuilt. To step inside its gilded world, check the schedule or take a guided tour. When it’s time to unwind, join locals at Pane e Pomodoro, Bari’s laid-back beach, or take a stroll down Via Sparano da Bari, a long, stylish shopping street lined with Italian designers and international names.
Bari also makes a superb base for discovering Puglia, thanks to modern, inexpensive train travel. To the south lies Polignano a Mare, where whitewashed houses teeter on the cliffs above sea caves and the stunning Lama Monachile cove is just begging you to take a dip in its turquoise waters. Inland, Alberobello enchants with its whimsical, UNESCO-listed trulli houses, which look like gnome huts straight out of a fairytale. If time allows, hop on a train to Lecce, the “Florence of the South”, where dazzling Baroque palaces and churches will leave you breathless.
WHERE TO EAT
Like the rest of Italy, Bari is a feast of flavours. Start with panzerotti, the city’s irresistible fried parcels of dough oozing with melted mozzarella and tomato. Or seek out fresh seafood at Porto Vecchio, where fishermen sell the day’s catch straight off their boats. In the old town, trattorias serve focaccia barese, a thick, olive oil-rich bread that comes studded with cherry tomatoes — Panificio Fiore is a good spot for this but get there early before they sell out. A dish that is unique to the city is the spicy spaghetti all’assassina, literally meaning “assassin’s spaghetti”. This ominous-sounding dish originated in the late 1960s at Al Sorso Preferito, which still serves it today. With a charred, caramelised texture, it’s made with pasta that is fried raw in olive oil before tomato passata is added to soften, while garlic and a generous amount of chilli add flavour.
NIGHTS OUT
Most of Puglia’s gay life is concentrated in Gallipoli, a two-and-a-half-hour train journey south of Bari. But during the summer, occasional LGBTQ+ club nights take place between Bari and Barletta to the north at Nautilus Beach in Giovinazzo and Eremo Club in Molfetta. Bari does not have any dedicated LGBTQ+ venues, so the local community meet at bars across the city. One of the most popular gay-friendly bars is La Ciclatera on the edge of the old town.
EVENTS
The city’s first Pride was held in 2003, but the Bari Pride organisation officially came into being in 2019, and rainbow crowds have gathered in the last week of June ever since. While fun, music and celebration are key to the event, there is political bite too with the protesters supporting other marginalised groups, as well as the LGBTQ+ community. Festivals in the city include the Bari Street Food Festival in June — a delicious dip into Apulian cuisine — and the Bari International Film Festival in March. Also known as Bif&st, this features independent and arthouse cinema.
WHEN TO GO
The best times to visit Bari are spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October). During these months, the weather is warm but not scorching, the Adriatic is perfect for swimming, and the narrow streets of the old town are lively without the intensity of the peak summer crowds.
INSIDER TIP
Each May, Bari comes alive for the Festival of Saint Nicolas, the city’s most important celebration. A painting of Saint Nicolas is the centrepiece of a shimmering boat procession before the Corteo Storico — a parade of people wearing full 11th-century costume — follows it on land to the Basilica of Saint Nicolas. The festival blends faith, history and spectacle, attracting thousands to its moving display of devotion and pageantry.
GETTING THERE
Attitude flew with British Airways from London Gatwick to Bari. This seasonal route runs from March to October, departing from London Gatwick. Ready to plan your escape? Find the best fares at ba.com/gatwick.
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