Harbour Hotel Brighton review: A peaceful coastal escape in which to reset

Brighton is only an hour by train from London, which is just what I need to decompress from the stresses of the capital. I arrive to Brighton’s Victorian-era station and walk straight downhill towards my hotel. I pass the Clock Tower and shopping centre that was recently taken over by IKEA to great fanfare.

Located on the seafront, the Harbour Hotel Brighton is another relic of the 1800s, but a £5-million refurbishment in 2015 means the hotel reopened spruced up and ready for the 21st century.

As soon as I arrive in the small lobby, I can see that the hotel’s design ethos is firmly tongue-in-cheek, with bold wallpapers and pop art framed on the walls, including a print of Andy Warhol’s poster for the gay erotic film Querelle.

Of the hotel’s 80 bedrooms, I find myself in a cosy double – small in size with one side of the bed pressed against the wall, but I am on my own, so perfectly happy with it. If you are looking for something a bit more lux, the suites offer enough space for in-room bathtubs with sea views. My room is bright with all the modern comforts, including a Nespresso machine and Bramley toiletries.

I take myself across the street and walk the promenade. I saunter along the pebble beach away from the Brighton Pleasure Pier with its arcade and fairground rides towards Hove and the West Pier. Watching the sunset against the skeletal remains of the pier, which was burned down in 2003, is equal parts affirming and disorientating.

Locals swim in the sea every day of the year, but I’m not brave enough for that. I would rather have a warm soak, and luckily the Harbour Hotel’s basement HarSPA offers plenty of options to shake off the cool autumn weather.

Massages, facials, body wraps and scrubs are all on offer, but I’m happy to just enjoy the subterranean facilities in the former smugglers’ tunnels. After a swim in the heated pool, I do a loop of the steam room the Scandinavian hot tub, and sauna.

Back on street level, I have dinner at the HarBAR + Kitchen. A large white marble cocktail bar dominates the room with a mix of booth and chair seating around it for diners. I find myself sitting under a large garish neon sign shaped like an arrow that reads ‘Pleasure’ – was this for attention? Maybe. Or maybe I was just looking for some kind of guidance.

The menu is traditional British fare, so I treat myself to some soy glazed pork belly bites to start. And for my main I go for fish and chips – as is the law when visiting the coast anywhere on our fair shores. The cocktails look amazing, but I wash my meal down with a perfectly poured Guinness. The waiting staff is super nice and attentive, which makes a solo meal feel a little less lonesome.

Just a few streets away from the hotel is Kemptown, home to most of the city’s gay bars. But with my bed calling me, I head upstairs and tuck myself in. It is Thursday and I have both The Celebrity Traitors and RuPaul’s Drag Race UK to watch, after all.

When it comes to my night’s sleep, although the bed is comfy, the constant whirring coming from the inner workings of the hotel is a small inconvenience, but once I fall asleep, I sleep well. The hotel is kind enough to provide ear plugs as a precaution.

I check out in the morning, forgoing a cooked breakfast, to get some retail therapy done in Brighton’s famous shopping lanes. I might even pop into IKEA to pick up some SILVERSIDA or HAVSGÄDDA.

To book a stay, visit harbourhotels.co.uk