Is the Paris cabaret scene as queer-friendly as it seems?
From the Moulin Rouge to underground queer scene, Paris offers a multilayered extravaganza of cabarets – but not every stage feels like it’s made for everyone
By Aaron Sugg
I have never seen so many breasts in my life. Bet that got your attention. Well, grab your feather boas and your bedazzled nipple tassels, and join me on a cabaret-crammed weekend in Paris, curtesy of Eurostar.
Setting off in Eurostar Premier is pure luxury. Located within St Pancras International, check-in is a breeze. I fly through baggage checks and straight into the Eurostar Premier Lounge, where I am greeted by magazines, hot and cold drinks, pastries and, of course, Kaya from Eurostar – who is fun, charismatic and, most importantly, just as excited as I am to board our train to the French capital.
Taking my Eurostar virginity in Premier seats is a pretty cool brag. A three-course breakfast, alternative dietary requirements catered for, and both hot and cold beverages with oat milk provided, immediately make me feel relaxed in the hands of the friendly staff. As I plug my phone into charge into the socket beneath my seat, I scroll through the weekend’s itinerary: the iconic Moulin Rouge, a drag cabaret at Madame Arthur, an alternative cabaret at La Nouvelle Seine, a drag brunch, and a day’s lesson followed by an evening show at the Crazy Horse Paris… I almost regret not bringing my stilettos (which are still in my shopping basket).
Arriving in Paris: Gare du Nord and boutique hotel check-in
After around an approximate two hour journey, we arrive at Gare du Nord, the Paris home of Eurostar. Scooping up our luggage and stepping out of the station, we are greeted by (for any Brits reading who may not be familiar) the sun. All aboard a taxi driven by a ruggedly handsome Parisian man, and in no time my journalist cohort and I pull up at the Joli Môme Hotel. This quaint, boutique 31-room hidden gem sits in the heart of the Batignolles neighbourhood, tucked away in Paris’s 17th arrondissement. With around 30 minutes to spare before we walk to the Moulin Rouge for a behind-the-scenes tour, I step into my extremely clean room, which smells as though it has only recently been bleached, take in my white marble en-suite – perfect for an evening mirror selfie – and soak in the leafy view from my two terrace windows.
Cabaret history: behind the scenes at the Moulin Rouge
We set off on a leisurely fifteen-minute stroll towards the legendary Moulin Rouge, with Inès from the Paris Tourist Office accompanying us along the way. She welcomes me with effortless French charm, her camp charisma perfectly matching my energy. As the iconic candy-cane windmill comes into view, I can’t help but think about the venue’s legacy. Stepping through its doors and into the ruby-crimson interior, I feel instantly transported into the glittering heart of cabaret history.
Among the 10,760 sq ft maze of feather headdresses and frocks a drag queen could only dream of, we meet the designers, sewers and a dancer who speaks eloquently about her time with the organisation. She explains the strict rules governing the venue’s talent: female dancers typically range from 5’9″ to 5’11”, and, looking around me, it is clear they are also expected to maintain a very slim frame. Dancers are routinely weighed and are not permitted to gain or lose more than 2kg.
An evening at the Moulin Rouge, Paris
The show itself is an extravagant affair, showcasing over 1,000 costumes made of sequins, rhinestones and feathers, worn by an ensemble of around 60 to 80 dancers. I am dazzled by each routine. The water sequence is particularly heart-racing, as one cabaret performer flails around within a submerged tank, leaving me completely immersed. Often described as the home of the French Cancan, its history – dating back to the 1820s – pays homage to a rebellious feminism movement grounding the Moulin Rouge. The dozens of bare chests in front of me feel almost mischievous. To all those sat in the audience: you can look, but you can’t touch!
However, returning to the strict rules governing the performers appearances, one element that slightly taints the experience is the lack of representation. I only see two non-white performers on stage, and, given my previous conversation with an employee who was hesitant to answer my questions about the venue’s LGBTQ+ history and, in fact, dismissed any discussion I raised around diversity, the venue has been somewhat ruined for me. If you think the Parisian show is anything like the queer celebration that is Moulin Rouge! The Musical on the West End or Broadway, I think you’d be disappointed.
Queer cabaret in Paris: Madame Arthur and La Bouche
The highlight of this trip has been Paris’s multi-faceted cabaret scene. Its queer hidden gems stand out for their originality against the city’s more polished, well-known venues. Less famous than its neighbour the Moulin Rouge, Madame Arthur is Paris’s first drag cabaret, founded in 1946. It offers experiential dining at its campest. I sit beneath a towering stage where three fabulous drag performers command attention. It’s refreshing. Although the performances are predominantly in French, the universal language of queer art still resonates deeply with me. For those wanting to continue the evening, the venue transforms from a gender-bending cabaret into a two dance-floor nightclub that runs until 6am (that is, if you are still standing after a few glasses of the house champagne, Tsarine Premium Brut).
Separately, to get a sense of what it’s like working as a queer cabaret performer in Paris today, I speak with Bili Bellegarde from contemporary queer cabaret La Bouche, who describes the LGBTQ+ scene as still largely “underground”.
“Mainstream cabarets do not represent the community” – Bili Bellegarde on queer cabarets in Paris
La Bouche is self-managed and led by a queer team. “I think people feel free and in a safe place,” she says. “Mainstream cabarets do not represent the community. They are part of cabaret history, but so are queer shows.” She also points to venues like Chez Michou, the legendary Montmartre drag cabaret founded in the 1950s and once a cornerstone of Paris’s queer nightlife, as part of that lineage. “Queer cabarets are carrying that heritage forward, creating safe spaces and telling our stories like nobody else,” she adds. “No one will represent that better than we can ourselves.” We settle in for the night just a short walk from our hotel, ahead of a morning packed with adventures exploring the city.
After a comfortable night’s sleep sprawled across my crisp white double bed, I wake ready for breakfast, albeit with a slightly hazy head. For an additional charge, the Joli Môme Hotel serves a hot and cold breakfast buffet daily from 7am until 10am. I am surprised by the sheer variety on offer given the intimate size of the basement dining room: hot eggs, fresh toast, flaky pastries and fruit juices laid out before me. Fuelled for the day, I spend the afternoon exploring the City of Lights. It is my first time in Paris, so I decide to walk rather than brave the Métro. “A twink lost in the Catacombs” sounds like the title of a new Netflix documentary.
The Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel Tower are breathtaking, sights I imagine never grow old for tourists or even Parisians themselves. Until now, they had only existed to me in films and photographs. Standing beneath them, I find myself teary-eyed, Facetiming my mother so she can share the moment with me. Finishing off my day of exploration with a new cap with “Paris” written across it and an Aperol Spritz in my stomach, I head back to the hotel to put my face on and spend the evening at La Nouvelle Seine.
La Nouvelle Seine: burlesque on the water
Less polished but all the more charming is La Nouvelle Seine, a burlesque and independent cabaret set on the water. It’s rough-around-the-edges feel only adds to the experience. After enjoying a delicious three-course meal aboard the cabaret vestle, a canal boat opposite Notre-Dame, we descend a flight of stairs to the Cabaret. Each performance embraces neo-burlesque through poetic, humorous and delightfully kitsch acts… some might even say kinky, especially after witnessing the woman in a horse mask.
After a night’s rest, we are ready for the final day. No breakfast is needed, as we are headed to a drag brunch. I’m expecting avocado and poached eggs on toast, a chicken burger, and all the usual London-style small plates, paired with unlimited prosecco for a couple of hours… max. The new Cabaret Lou Diprey, tucked away in the 10th arrondissement of Paris, offers a full buffet! While I’m not too keen on the food itself, the selection is certainly impressive. That said, I am slightly disappointed by the lack of alcoholic options; a jug of sangria doesn’t quite feel enough to carry me through a drag brunch.
Serving Attitude at Crazy Horse Paris
Little did I know that my empty stomach would play to my advantage at the one and only, the dazzling, the luxurious, the exclusive Crazy Horse Paris, for… get ready for it: the Crazy Attitude Experience. Oh, and I am prepared to serve Attitude.
Greeted by the ever-so-gorgeous Zora Moonshine, one of the performers, she introduces us to the art of cabaret, embracing the venue’s signature fusion of elegance, sensuality and confidence. Unlike the Moulin Rouge, I feel instantly welcome; despite the cabaret being made up predominantly of female performers with a male host and a male dancer interlude, she treats me like one of the girls. One thing I take away from the whole experience is that posture is key – and my back agrees. Confidence is everything: the way you present yourself, your walk, your hands, chest forward. I leave feeling empowered, sexy and craving to be one of the Crazy Girls.
Returning to the Crazy Horse Cabaret in the evening in my glad rags, I sit on lipstick-shaped velvet chairs with a bottle of champagne beside me. Serenaded by the charming Georges Bangable, he owns the room, interacting with me and the rest of the crowd as he prepares us for the magnificence that is about to unfold in front of us. The Crazy Horse is celebrating its 75th anniversary in 2026, and I raise a glass to a show that leaves me in awe. During the 90-minute performance, I watch 20 individual acts, opened by ‘God Save Our Bareskin’, with performers dressed as British Royal Guards setting the tone for an evening I believe cannot be beaten. A particular highlight is the ‘Oops! I Did It Again’ cabaret act. Titled ‘Reine des Cœurs’, this dazzling piece sees performers swirl around on hanging bars from the stage ceiling, kicking their legs into the air and owning the stage. The jazzy beat gives me chills. A true display of female empowerment and Parisian glamour.
What cabarets does Paris have to offer?
And that’s it: three days in Paris, five cabarets, and a trip I’ll never forget. Paris offers a multilayered extravaganza of cabarets, none like the other. Whether you’re looking for a queer celebration made up of drag, vocals and joy, you’ve got it. If you’re there to experience the pizzazz of the mainstream Parisian scene, you’ve got it too. Diversity is something conventional shows could work on, but I believe that is what they are known for, rooted in history and female empowerment. Sex sells, and they do it unapologetically their way.
For a trip to Paris, Eurostar offers quick and easy travel from London to the French capital. Book tickets and plan your journey via the official Eurostar website.