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Graz LGBTQ+ travel guide: where to eat, party and explore in the Austrian city

In partnership with BA Euroflyer

By Simon Salton and Marco Girardi

Writers Simon Salton and Marco Girardi infront of Uhrturm, the iconic clock tower
Writers Simon Salton and Marco Girardi infront of Uhrturm, the iconic clock tower (Image: Simon Salton and Marco Girardi)

Crowned Austria’s first “Capital of Delight” in 2008, Graz is just that. Combining historic elegance with contemporary design – and great food – it’s an LGBTQ+-friendly city that buzzes with energy, just a short hop from the UK.

From the moment you arrive, Graz will steal your heart. A mix of imperial charm and contemporary creativity, this is surely Austria’s best-kept secret, a city where Renaissance courtyards sit alongside futuristic buildings, and the young and lively energy of the city embraces you. 

Graz will instantly make you feel at home. Austria’s second-largest city is truly LGBTQ+-friendly and offers the perfect combination of art, culture and good food. 

What to do

At the heart of the capital of the southern province of Styria is the Hauptplatz, the main square of the beautifully preserved medieval Old Town which is lined with elegant buildings and cafés. Lose yourself in the Old Town’s narrow lanes, exploring hidden courtyards lined with pastel buildings that blend Renaissance and baroque styles. 

Graz’s Old Town and Uhrturm clock tower in the distance (Image: Simon Salton and Marco Girardi)

Another must is climbing the 260 steps — or taking the funicular — to the top of Schlossberg hill, which is crowned by the Uhrturm, Graz’s iconic Clock Tower. Looking out over the terracotta rooftops of Graz spread below, with the Styrian hills in the distance, is pure magic. 

To see the modern, creative side of Graz, cross the Mur River to visit Kunsthaus Graz — Graz Art Museum — a paradise for contemporary art lovers. The building itself is nicknamed the “Friendly Alien” because of its futuristic curves. Nearby floats the Murinsel, a steel-and-glass island café where you can relax with a drink and watch the river flow beneath your feet. 

Another must is the baroque Eggenberg Palace, which dates back to 1625. Surrounded by peaceful gardens and proud peacocks, this UNESCO World Heritage site feels like stepping back in time and makes a romantic spot to take a walk. 

Two men hold hands in front of the baroque Eggenberg Palace
The writers in front of the baroque Eggenberg Palace (Image: Simon Salton and Marco Girardi)

Where to eat

 Graz proudly holds the title of Austria’s Culinary Capital, and everywhere you go you can enjoy local flavours, from Styrian pumpkin seed oil to homemade breads and regional wines. 

Start your mornings surrounded by the scent of freshly baked pastries at the Lendplatz Market, where locals begin their day with an espresso. 

For lunch, try Der Steirer, with its Styrian-style tapas and excellent selection of wines. Another great stop is the Kunsthauscafé, where you’ll find it hard to resist ordering the Schlossbergkugel dessert, a chocolate treat filled with nougat cream and inspired by Graz’s futuristic art museum. 

The Murinsel, a steel-and-glass island café
The Murinsel, a steel-and-glass island café (Image: Getty)

For dinner, visit Aiola Upstairs. With its breathtaking city views, elegant cocktails and refined atmosphere, it’s one of the most romantic spots in Graz. At night, the view of twinkling lights from its terrace is breathtaking. 

For something more traditional, Gösser Bräu Graz offers Austrian specialities such as Bavarian white sausage with sweet mustard, pork schnitzel with parsley potatoes and cranberries, and goulash with bread dumplings, all accompanied by local beer. 

The red-tiled roofs of Graz’s Old Town
The red-tiled roofs of Graz’s Old Town (Image: Getty)

Nights out

 When the sun goes down, Graz’s energy extends into the evening. The city’s LGBTQ+ scene might not be as big as Vienna’s, but it’s full of heart and good vibes. 

STARS Café-Bar, a friendly and vibrant gay bar, will quickly become a favourite hangout. Just a short walk away, KATZE-KATZE is another must-visit, a stylish LGBTQ+-friendly cocktail bar with a creative drinks list and elegant ambience. Be sure, too, to check out the local queer vibe at baseMENt 2.0, and the gay-friendly Café Silber and Café Stars. 

When you’re in the mood for dancing, Postgarage will keep  you moving all night long with a mix of electro beats. 

Kunsthaus Graz — Graz Art Museum — a paradise for contemporary art lovers
Kunsthaus Graz — Graz Art Museum — a paradise for contemporary art lovers (Image: Getty)

Events

 If you visit in June, during Graz Pride — also known as CSD Graz — get ready for one of the most joyful and inclusive celebrations in Austria. The whole city comes alive with concerts, performances, open-air parties and a beautiful parade of colour and community — a true reflection of Graz’s open heart. Another highlight in the LGBTQ+ calendar is February’s annual Tuntenball, a drag ball started in 1989 that has become one of the biggest and oldest charity events in Europe. 

Other local events combine Graz’s passion for art, design and music. In summer, La Strada Festival brings theatre and street performance, while in autumn, Steirischer Herbst, one of Europe’s oldest contemporary art festivals, transforms the city into a laboratory of avant-garde creativity. And if you love music, the Springfestival turns warehouses and courtyards into dance floors. 

Two men holding hands walking down a street in Graz
The writers walking down a street in Graz (Image: Simon Salton and Marco Girardi)

Insider tip

Take an excursion to South Styria, just outside Graz, known as the Austrian Tuscany, for a stunning landscape of vineyards, olive groves and wine taverns — perfect for wine lovers. You can choose to rent a bike or car and follow the South Styrian Wine Road for panoramic views and delicious tastings. 

When to go

 Graz is a delight year-round, but spring and early autumn bring the best balance of sunshine and festivals. Summer offers lively outdoor dining and vibrant events, while winter sees the city sparkle with lively Christmas markets. 

Getting there

Attitude flew with British Airways from London Gatwick to Graz, currently the only flight between the two cities. Flights operate year-round, three times per week, on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Book the best prices at ba.com/gatwick.